Byline: E.A. Torriero
That dash of holiday horseradish, a spicy staple for many a Christmas prime rib dinner, could taste a lot zestier soon.
Word from southern Illinois _ the self-proclaimed "Horseradish Capital of the World" _ is that this season's crop will likely produce a record low yield because of extreme summer heat. But the roots that survive will likely pack a punch.
Depending on the farm, the crop could be off from 10 percent to almost half the usual bounty.
For farmers, that's bad news because it will mean far less profits. But the dry conditions seem to have also killed off the usual attack of fungi. The result: a whiter root without many of the usual contamination.
That could have horseradish lovers salivating by next spring when Passover and Easter meals are ready for the fiery condiment. The brighter the root, the more pungent the sauce, horseradish aficionados say.
"The quality is up," said Carl Weissert, who has been growing horseradish roots for decades on several plots surrounded by the blighted urban landscape of East St. Louis. "I see good flowers and good colors."
The Illinois side of Metro St. Louis has long been the nation's horseradish belly of America. Most folks don't know of its claim to fame as the state does little to publicize it.
The rich and fertile land of the Mississippi River bottoms has long been a perfect spot for growing the roots that are later crushed and turned into a spicy condiment known to quickly clear sinuses and even relieve back pains.
No one is sure how much is grown in southern Illinois. But estimates are the region provides up to two thirds of the 24 million pounds of roots that created about six million gallons of horseradish sauce.
The expected shortage is likely to have no impact in price or quantity for consumers because, growers say, there's always more than enough horseradish to meet demands.
But about a dozen areas farmers could suffer substantial losses if their crop is ruined or falls short of agreed expectation.
"For as long as my family can remember, we've never seen it this bad," said Jeff Heepke, president of the Horseradish Growers of Illinois, whose family traces back four generation in horseradish growing.
With mild weather for much of the month, Heepke has spent 12-hour days harvesting his family's 150 acres around Edwardsville and Granite City.
Because the harvest season runs from October to April, the full extent of the damage won't be known for months.
"This could have a great impact on a lot of growers' incomes," he said. "We depend on this for a living. It's not a hobby. To go through a stretch like this hurts."
Growers stretched out for 50 miles say they are seeing different results depending on the climate over their patch of land.
Barry McMillin, a third-generation horseradish farmer from Caseyville, says he is optimistic for his expected 3.5 tons of crop.
"It's hitting people differently," he said of the drought effects. "I don't seem to be having it too bad."
Some processors caution against overreacting. By the time next year's annual horseradish festival in Collinsville rolls around in June, growers may be singing praises rather than the blues.
"It's way too early to be making predictions," said Dennis Diekemper, manager of J.R. Kelly Co, the top shipper of roots in the nation with about 4,000 tons a year. Kelly's storehouses are filled to the gills.
"The American public has nothing to worry about," he said. "There's plenty of horseradish and plenty more coming."
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